The answer lies in the molecular composition of permanent makeup pigments.

Cosmetic tattoo inks contain a variety of colorant molecules that may be organic or inorganic in nature. Each pigment behaves differently within the skin, responds uniquely to laser treatment, and differs in molecular structure and weight.

To better understand why these pigment shifts occur, explore the explanations below.

Iron oxide contributes warm red and earthy tones to permanent makeup pigments and was commonly used in higher concentrations in pigments popular during the 1990s and early 2000s, particularly in older soft tap and early microblading procedures. While iron oxide can still be found in some modern formulations, it is typically used in lower concentrations than in earlier generations of pigment.

If your brows have faded over time to a salmon, orange, or pink tone — especially if they were tattooed during that period — there is a strong likelihood that iron oxide is present in the skin.

When laser energy interacts with iron oxide, the heat can alter its molecular structure, converting ferric oxide (a warmer red tone) into ferrous oxide, which appears grey or darker in the skin. A similar reaction can occasionally occur with titanium dioxide, though this is uncommon and is more likely when higher laser settings are used.

If this type of color shift occurs during treatment, it is not a cause for concern. Laser settings are selected carefully to minimize paradoxical darkening whenever possible, and additional sessions are often used to gradually target and lighten the grey pigment.

A test patch is always performed before treatment begins. If darkening occurs, treatment options are reviewed and discussed fully before proceeding further.

Brown permanent makeup pigment is typically made up of several color components, most commonly black, red, and yellow, and in some formulations, white.

These colorants may be organic or inorganic in composition, and each molecule differs in size, weight, and how deeply it settles within the skin.

Black pigment — often carbon-based or iron oxide-based — generally contains the smallest and lightest particles. Because laser removal works by breaking down pigment gradually in layers, the smaller and more superficial particles often respond first, while deeper or heavier warm tones remain more visible.

As darker pigment clears, underlying red and yellow components may temporarily become more noticeable, causing brows to appear warmer, orange, or salmon-toned during the removal process.

This orange stage is often temporary, and additional sessions are usually needed to continue breaking down remaining pigment layers. In some cases, however, clients are pleased with the softened warmer tone after one treatment and choose not to pursue further removal.

Yellow tones can become visible during removal once darker pigment layers have been cleared and remaining yellow molecules are left behind. Organic yellow pigments are particularly resistant to laser treatment, and no current laser can reliably eliminate them completely. Our advantage is that once pigment has been safely lightened to this stage, clients can either transition into correction work through our sister studio, Makeup Moxie, or continue with saline and glycolic removal methods when additional fading is desired.

Titanium dioxide is a white pigment often added to permanent makeup formulations to create opacity and soften color intensity. Because it reflects much of the laser energy delivered during treatment, titanium dioxide does not respond predictably and cannot be fully removed with laser technology alone. In certain cases, titanium-containing pigments may temporarily darken before gradually improving with further treatment. When residual titanium remains, additional fading can be pursued with saline or glycolic removal methods, or clients may transition into correction work through our sister studio, Makeup Moxie, once the pigment has been sufficiently lightened.

Scar tissue in the treatment area can also affect how pigment responds to laser removal. When scar tissue is present, pigment may become trapped or encapsulated within the tissue, which can make laser fading less predictable and sometimes slower than expected. In these cases, remaining pigment may not lift evenly and alternative removal methods are often recommended. Depending on the skin and pigment response, additional fading may be approached with glycolic removal or by alternating laser treatments with microneedling, both of which are offered in studio and can help improve pigment release in more resistant areas.